Four notes, eight strings
A mandolin carries eight strings in four courses — pairs tuned in perfect unison — at G3–D4–A4–E5, the same fifths as a violin. Tuning one is really two jobs: getting each course to the right note, and getting the two strings within each course perfectly matched. The second job is the one that separates a mandolin that punches from one that warbles.
- G34th course · pair of G strings196.00 Hz
- D43rd course · pair of D strings293.66 Hz
- A42nd course · pair of A strings440.00 Hz
- E51st course · pair of E strings659.26 Hz
Each tone is the target for BOTH strings of its course. Tune them one at a time — never both ringing at once.
The pair-matching routine
- Mute one string of the pair with a spare fingertip and tune its partner alone against the dial above — letter first, then center the needle. Two strings ringing together confuse the tuner (and your ear).
- Swap: mute the string you just tuned, and tune its twin the same way.
- Play the pair together and listen. A matched pair locks into one bright, solid note. A slow wah-wah-wah pulse means they’re a few cents apart — nudge one string until the pulse slows and disappears. (That pulse is “beating,” the same phenomenon behind tuning by ear.)
- Work G → D → A → E, then do a second pass. Eight strings’ worth of tension changes add up across the neck.
Beyond the basics
The same routine covers the whole family — mandola (C3–G3–D4–A4) and octave mandolin (G2–D3–A3–E4) just have lower targets. For the full write-up, including what to do when a mandolin is sweet open but sour fretted (hint: the bridge moves), see our mandolin & banjo tuning guide — or head straight to the banjo tuner if that’s the instrument in your hands.
Frequently asked questions
Should the two strings of a pair be exactly identical, or slightly detuned for shimmer?
Identical — as close as you can manage. The mandolin’s percussive punch comes from pairs striking as one voice; audible shimmer within a pair reads as “out of tune,” not “lush.” Deliberate detuning is a 12-string-guitar aesthetic, not a mandolin one.
Why does the tuner jump around when I strum a course?
Because it’s hearing two strings that are almost — but not quite — the same pitch, plus a sharp pick attack. Pluck one string of the pair alone, gently, with the other muted, and the reading steadies immediately. This is the single most common mandolin-tuning mistake.
My E course reads fine but sounds shrill and never quite sweet. Any advice?
Check the pair-match first (beats, above), then the strings themselves — old, corroded E strings go harsh long before they break. E5 at 659 Hz is also high enough that a worn string’s harmonics stretch sharp, so fresh strings genuinely tune sweeter up there.